A Set of Five Original Watercolor Illustrations of 12th- To 16th-Century English Fashions

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These watercolor works display historical English fashion starting in the Late Medieval period through the Early Renaissance (primarily the 12th … Read more These watercolor works display historical English fashion starting in the Late Medieval period through the Early Renaissance (primarily the 12th through the 16th centuries). A specific 1842 book of hand-colored costume plates titled “The Civil Costume of England from the Conquest to the Present Time,” illustrated by Charles Martin and etched by Leopold Martin, London, Henry Bohn, 1842 likely served as the watercolorist’s inspiration. The costumes in the book were drawn from tapestries, monumental effigies and illuminated manuscripts.

The first image on offer here closely corresponds to the book’s plate depicting “Berengaria, Queen of Richard I (d. 1230). She holds a prayer book and wears an alms purse on her girdle.” In the far left background, two lesser-ranked ladies-in-waiting follow in simpler yellow and blue medieval gowns with high necklines.

The second image depicts late 15th-century Italian or French nobility. A wealthy woman is dressed in an opulent, wide-sleeved blue gown with contrasting gold lining and a white kirtle underneath. Her hair is bound in an ornate, padded Italian-style crescent headdress. In the background, a figure walks away in a pink gown featuring a long, trailing medieval train.

The third image focuses on early Renaissance court dress. A standing woman wears a split-front ochre/gold skirt paired with a fitted, structured deep red bodice that features contrasting white lapels and laced under-sleeves. A secondary figure in the background shows the rear profile of a long-waisted gown.

The fourth image, corresponds to the book’s “Habit of King Edward VI (1537-1553), taken from a portrait by Holbein when the king was 13 years old in 1550.” He wears a short-sleeved velvet cape over an embroidered tunic, velvet breeches and stockings, portrayed leaning against a stone balustrade, studying an open manuscript. He is dressed in a short, belted crimson doublet over bright red hosen (tights) and dark pointed shoes.

The fifth image depicts costume from the reigns of Henry IV and V (1399-1422), after an image also in the book. The prominent gentleman wears a heavy, fur-lined purple ceremonial gown draped over his shoulders, paired with a matching deep-burgundy chaperon (a complex padded hat with a draped tail). A page or attendant stands behind him in a shorter, practical slate-grey tunic, tight belt, and flat cap.

Signature/Maker’s Mark: Nonexistent. Unframed dimensions (left to right): 6.5 inches high x 4.5 inches wide; 6.5 inches high x 4.5 inches wide; 6.5 inches high x 4.5 inches wide; 6.5 inches high x 4.5 inches wide; 6.5 inches high x 4.5 inches wide. See less